The Czech St Nicholas tradition, Mikuláš, is one of the country’s most memorable family customs. Although the feast of St Nicholas is 6 December, the Czech celebration happens primarily on the evening of 5 December.
After dark, groups of three figures appear in streets, squares, Christmas markets and private homes: Mikuláš dressed as a bishop, an angel (anděl) and a devil (čert). For children, the encounter can be exciting, funny and occasionally intimidating.
What happens when Mikuláš visits?
The adults ask the child whether they have behaved well during the year. Children are often expected to recite a poem or sing a song. Mikuláš then gives them a small package containing sweets, fruit, nuts or other treats.
The angel represents reward and reassurance. The devil carries chains, a sack or other theatrical props and symbolically threatens naughty children. In most modern family settings the devil is meant as playful theatre, not serious punishment, although parents vary considerably in how frightening they make the experience.
Public Mikuláš events
In Prague, Brno and other cities you can encounter many groups independently walking through the centre on December 5. Christmas markets, zoos, castles, schools and community centres also organise structured programmes.
Visitors with young children should consider how comfortable the child is with scary costumes. Some Czech devil costumes are elaborate and intentionally dramatic.
What food and gifts are traditional?
The classic Mikuláš package is small rather than equivalent to Christmas presents. It may include mandarins or oranges, apples, nuts, chocolate, biscuits and sweets. Symbolically naughty children might receive a piece of coal or a potato alongside the treats.
The custom therefore acts as an Advent preview rather than replacing Czech Christmas gift-giving, which centres on Christmas Eve and Ježíšek.
Is December 5 or 6 a public holiday?
No. Neither date is a statutory Czech holiday. Shops, schools and offices operate normally. December 5 can nevertheless be unusually lively after work and school because Mikuláš groups appear as darkness falls.
For foreigners living in Czechia, this is one of the traditions worth knowing in advance: seeing horned devils rattling chains in the street can otherwise be quite a surprise.